Leyland Cypress Grower's Guide
Revised January 1997
As a service for our nursery customers, we give each a copy of a Leyland Cypress Grower's Guide which we prepared based on our experience growing and marketing Leylands here at Louisiana's Christmas Forest. We are now making that same guide available to our web visitors. We hope it will be of interest.
I. INTRODUCTION
A. The Southern Christmas Tree Industry
The southern Christmas tree industry is still young, having its origins in the 1960's. Encouraged by research and promotion by state universities and their related extension services, all manner of folks from doctors and lawyers to farmers and retirees couldn't resist the temptation to plant southern Christmas trees. On paper Christmas trees looked to be possibly the best return per acre from any crop grown in our region. Why, there was nothing to it: you simply planted cheap Virginia pine seedlings, kept the grass mowed, sheared them a little and four or five years later sold them for $20 a piece. Some early forecasts projected 90% salable trees out of 1000 per acre planted. In 1993, I saw a then-current government publication listing costs of only $300 per acre per year (real costs are about four times as much). It doesn't take a financial wizard to calculate impressive returns from such estimates.
Reality proved elusive for these early forecasts. Virginia Pine was marginally suited for Christmas tree production, cultural practices were unproven and difficult and, just as most farms began to bring trees to market, a nationwide Christmas tree glut hit. True, some choose and cut farms did well early on. In fact, they almost did too well. Being able to sell almost anything because of the novelty of "cutting your own" tree, many growers were spoiled and never able to adapt to the need for a better quality tree once increased competition arrived in the 1980's.
Faced with national competition and the expense and difficulty of growing Virginia pine, most southern growers dropped out of the business in the last half of the 1980's. Those that persisted knew they had to improve or they too would be forced out.
B. A New Era in Southern Christmas Trees
It's no overstatement to say that the most exciting thing to happen in the short history of the southern Christmas tree industry is the introduction of Leyland cypress. Beleaguered growers, tired of fighting insects, disease, poor form and the generally poor financial returns associated with Virginia pine, are welcoming Leyland cypress with open arms. Still, many growers haven't tried Leylands, and even among those who have, many unanswered questions remain.
C. The Purpose of this Guide
The purpose of this Grower's Guide is to review what's known about Leyland cypress and the cultural practices necessary to grow it as a southern Christmas tree. This won't be an exhaustive discussion nor will everything stated be right for each and every circumstance. Sources include published literature, the experience of other growers plus what we've learned about Leylands in several years of growing and marketing them at our farm in Zachary, Louisiana. Others may have had contrary experiences; so, be forewarned, don't necessarily swallow whole everything you read herein or hear from other sources. We all still have a lot to learn about Leyland cypress. And, as new or better information surfaces, this guide will be revised.
D. What is Leyland Cypress?
In the 1800's numerous tree species from all over the world were planted in an arboretum at Leighton Hall estate in England (Welshpool, Wales). In 1888 six unusual seedlings were noticed at Leighton Hall, apparently from a rare intergeneric cross between an Alaska-cedar (Chamaecyparis nootkatensis) mother tree and a nearby Monterey cypress (Cupressus macrocarpa). Both parent trees are native to the North-American Pacific coast. The new hybrid (Cupressocyparis leylandii) was called a cypress since the Alaska-Cedar is a "false cypress" and the Monterey cypress is a "true cypress." Neither are related to our southern baldcypress (Taxodium distichum).
The original six seedlings were taken to Haggerston Castle estate in central England (Northumberland) by a relative of the owner of Leighton Hall, C. J. Leyland. In 1911 two more seedlings were derived from a Monterey cypress at Leighton Hall and were transplanted there by J. M. Naylor, a nephew of Leyland. One of these developed into the popular 'Leighton Green' cultivar. An additional two seedlings originated in a garden at Ferndown, Dorset in 1940.
The beauty and outstanding growth of these new hybrids caused them to be planted throughout England and abroad. Leylands were first introduced into the United States at the Institute of Forest Genetics at Placerville, California in 1941 and into the South in 1965 at Brookgreen Gardens on the Atlantic Coast and Clemson in the Upper Piedmont.
There apparently are at least twelve, and possible more, clones or "cultivars" (cultivated varieties) of Leyland cypress in existence, each from a different cross between the parent species. The cultivar planted almost exclusively for Christmas trees in the southern United States to date is 'Leighton Green'; however, other cultivars such as 'Castlewellan Gold' and 'Silver Dust' show promise for those customers preferring something different.
Leyland cypress was first considered for use as a Christmas tree when Clemson University began studying it in the 1970's. The production of Leylands for Christmas trees has since spread from South Carolina to other parts of the South and now numbers in the hundreds of thousands annually. Demand for rooted cuttings for Christmas tree production began to accelerate in the early 1990's and today (in the mid-1990's) is increasing dramatically each year.
II. WHERE CAN LEYLANDS BE GROWN?
A. Geographic Range
People often ask, "Where is Leyland cypress native?" Of course, being a cross-genus hybrid, the answer is that it's native to nowhere. Consequently, there is no "natural range" of the species. One of the parent species (Monterey cypress) is native to the moderate climate of southern California and the other parent (Alaska cedar) is native to much colder areas from the Pacific Northwest up into southern Alaska. Leyland cypress seems to stand hot weather much better than it does cold. It grows well in the southern United States, but its northern range is definitely limited by cold weather.
Large Leylands in South Carolina were reported damaged and two-year olds were killed when the temperature dipped to -8F. At our farm (just north of Baton Rouge, Louisiana), we have experienced temperatures down to single digits, around +8F, with no noticeable damage to our Leylands. Dirr (1990) estimates its northern range in the eastern United States extends into most of Virginia and Kentucky and the southern parts of Missouri and Kansas. Leylands are being grown for Christmas trees in Virginia and up into northern Arkansas and Mississippi. I have heard unconfirmed reports of Leyland cypress used as landscape trees (on a very limited basis) as far north as southern Illinois. On the West Coast, Leylands are reported growing well in parts of California.
B. Site and Soils
The literature indicates that Leyland cypress will grow on a wide range of soil types from sand to clay and a pH range of perhaps 5.0 to 8.0. Our experience is that Leyland cypress reacts dramatically to the conditions under which it is grown. For example, it reacts much more noticeably to soil fertility and drought than does Virginia pine. Also, it seems to do best where some clay is present in the soil. Experience will tell us how Leylands will grow in various soil and water conditions. I can say that it does very well on our soils, which are moderately well-drained to somewhat poorly-drained silty, clay loams with a pH of 5.6 to 6.2. It is probably safe to say that there are few soils in the Southeast United States on which Leylands will not grow with proper care; so, soil should not normally be a limiting factor.
III. CULTURAL PRACTICES
A. Planting Stock
Leyland cypress must be vegetatively propagated since it is, as far as anyone knows, a sterile hybrid. Typically, the rooted plants are transplanted from pots into the field. Initial trials using bare-rooted plants look promising, but it's too early to tell conclusively. So, for now, this leaves us with the decision of what size and quality of potted plant to choose.
Leyland cypress for Christmas trees have been sold in pot sizes varying from small "plugs" (about one inch in diameter and four inches deep) up to five gallon pots and larger. At Louisiana's Christmas Forest we've planted a range of sizes over the years:
- plugs (1" X 4")
- liners (2.5" square)
- quart liners (3.5" to 4" square)
- nurseryman's gallons
- full gallons
- two gallons
- five gallons
- ten gallons
Generally speaking, the larger the pot and plant size, the sooner it'll become a Christmas tree and the higher survival will be. Obviously, there is a point of diminishing returns to be found somewhere between the smallest and the largest.
Some examples illustrates this:
Field 1. The first year we planted Leyland cypress, the only size we could find was the small plugs. We lost about 10% to mortality. At age four the field averaged six feet tall.
Field 2. Three years later we planted a field using nurseryman's gallons. Survival was 100% and at age two the field averaged six feet tall, the same height in two years as the first field produced in four years.
Field 3. At the same time we planted field 2, we planted the field immediately adjacent to it using quart liners. Growing side by side with field 2, we got over 99% survival with the liners, but the average height at age two was at least one foot shorter than those in field 2 planted from gallons.
Field 4. A fourth field planted using full gallon planting stock did not show growth advantages over field 2 which used the somewhat smaller nurseryman's gallons.
Field 5. In 1993, we started a field which would be devoted exclusively to growing a small number of very large Leylands, 15' to 20' at time of sale. To get a head start in this field, the first year we planted 40 trees each of different three pot sizes: 10 gallons, 5 gallons and 1 gallons. The results have been quite interesting. By the second Christmas in the field, the plants from ten-gallon pots averaged nearly 10' tall, with the five-gallon plants about 2' shorter and the one-gallon plants about 2' shorter than the five-gallon plants. This illustrates the potential of very short rotations or the ability to get started selling Leylands sooner by using larger planting stock.
Certainly, one can save money initially by using liners. But is this the most cost effective choice? Our experience has shown that the nurseryman's gallon will produce, on our farm, an average seven-foot tree at age three while a liner only produces a five and one-half foot tree at the same age. We can sell the seven foot tree for about $35 and the five and one-half foot tree for $25. Now, if the liner costs $1.00 and the gallon $1.75, this means that if we invest 75¢ more at planting time, we can realize $10.00 more three years later -- a before tax return on investment in excess of 100% per annum!
In spite of this some growers maintain that liners are still more cost effective for them since they have plenty of land and don't care if the trees stay in the field an additional year (as long as they're already set up on a longer rotation). However, there are other good reasons for using larger planting stock. For example, every additional year the plant is in the field additional expense is incurred. If maintenance costs after planting run $750/acre/year, any saving from planting liners will be used up by only one extra year in the field. Furthermore, larger plants can be basal pruned immediately after planting, allowing unshielded, directed spraying of herbicide (e.g., Roundup) under the plants from the outset. Larger plants can also withstand adverse conditions such as poor soil, drought and misuse of herbicides much better than can smaller plants.
So, based on this experience, plus the fact that the nurseryman's gallon can easily be planted using a posthole digger, we have at least for now decided that the nurseryman's gallon is the best pot size for us. However, the gallon has at least one major disadvantage compared to smaller pots -- it's much harder to transport or ship. Liners can be shipped UPS, but gallons are impractical to ship; they have to be picked up at the nursery with a truck or trailer.
Regardless of the pot size chosen, it is important to get healthy, single-stem plants with good color and well-developed (but not "rootbound") root systems.
B. Soil Fertility
No one really knows what soil fertility levels are best for Leyland cypress. We do know that fertility is more important to a Leyland than to some other species grown for Christmas trees, most notably pines. On some farms Leylands are vigorous and green while on other farms trees of the same age are yellow and stunted; the difference has to be largely the result of soil fertility and/or pH (possibly drainage or irrigation in some cases).
Without empirical data concerning Leyland cypress fertility requirements, by trial and error growers have developed at least a general formula for a successful fertility program:
1. Take a soil test prior to planting. This is imperative! Probably because Virginia pines don't react well to fertilization, many southern growers have gotten out of the habit of getting their soil tested. Growing Leyland cypress requires soil testing and accompanying fertilization. We've have had good success sending our soil tests to A&L Labs of Memphis, Tennessee. The soil scientists I've talked to readily admit that they don't know with any precision what Leyland cypress needs. However, they can give general recommendations based on the needs of other similar crops.
2. Prior to planting bring the soil up to recommended fertility levels from the soil lab for all major and minor elements except nitrogen. Of course, any necessary pH adjustment should be made at the same time. An ideal time to fertilize prior to planting is in the fall when fertilizer and lime can be worked into the soil as the site is prepared for spring planting.
3. Apply ammonium nitrate about three months after planting. Add about 1-2 oz. of ammonium nitrate (30-0-0) under the drip line of each new transplant in May of the first growing season. A similar amount of ammonium nitrate can be added later in the growing season.
4. Each year get a new soil test for each field and apply recommended rate of fertilizer in February (right before start of the growing season). It may be wise to apply any recommended nitrogen in two or more partial stages throughout the growing season since nitrogen does not remain in the soil very long.
5. Do not apply fertility in the last half of the sale year. It is generally a good idea not to apply any fertilizer, especially nitrogen, in the six months prior to sale since this may shorten houselife.
As mentioned already there is a dearth of information on the reaction of Leyland cypress to fertilizer. However, in one test we applied supplemental nitrogen to an entire field except five trees at the end of each of 50 rows. At the close of the second growing season, the fertilized trees averaged nine inches taller and were much fuller and greener than the unfertilized trees. This is an illustration of how Leylands respond well to proper fertility.
C. Planting
For a long time there was a running debate over whether or not to shake the potting medium off a Leyland's roots before planting. It was easy to find growers who vigorously supported one method or another. At first we preferred the middle ground of loosening the outer roots on the sides and bottom of the root ball to prevent a "rootbound" condition. It seemed reasonable that potting soil around the roots would help the plant grow and survive initially. We knew it was important that the roots be broken out of the ball to avoid being rootbound.
Several years ago growers begin reporting excellent results with bare-root planting, especially in drought-prone soils. The most probably explanation for this is that when plants are set out in a bare-root condition early in the spring they are forced to develop a good root system while the soil has adequate moisture. Then, when dry periods occur later in the year, the bare-root stock can cope better than those plants that may have stayed in a more rootbound condition.
We ran experiments with bare root planting and found it really did seem to produce better survival, fewer trees needing staking and better growth. Therefore, we are now planting Leylands on our farm by shaking nearly all of the potting medium off the roots just prior to sticking the plant in the ground, then mixing some of the potting soil with field soil as we fill up the hole.
We plant our one-gallon Leylands using a manual posthole digger. The "nurseryman's gallon" fits nicely into a posthole. It's important to cover the top of the rootball with about 1/2" to 1" of soil to prevent moisture from "wicking" out of the ball. So far, tests have not shown improved performance with deeper planting. And, of course, make sure the plant is straight and pack around it with your foot to remove air pockets.
Planting spacing on Leylands should be similar to that used on Virginia pine. We have always used 6' X 7' spacing with good results, but I wouldn't recommend going any closer than about 6' X 6'. We are going to experiment with 7' by 7' spacing since we have had some indication that a wider spacing may produce a higher quality Leyland cypress.
We have planted as early as November and as late as April (using one-gallon plants) with no mortality problems. November planting didn't produce a larger plant over an adjacent planting planted in February. It's probably best to let the plants grow and mature at the nursery over winter and plant in February or early March after the coldest weather is past.
We used to believe that another advantage in planting the larger, one-gallon plants was the opportunity to "set the handle" before the tree was taken to the field. It's much easier to prune a handle on a tree while it's in the pot and sitting on a table rather than after it's planted. However, we now believe that setting the handle on a Leyland shorter than about 30" may retard its growth.
D. Survival
Virginia pine survival usually falls in the 70% - 95% range, with 85% considered good. Leyland cypress survival varies widely depending on field conditions and the quality and handling of planting stock. If large, healthy plants are properly planted in a well-prepared field, survival rates in excess of 95% are the norm.
We expect and normally get nearly 100% survival using one-gallon planting stock and have obtained over 95% survival with smaller pot sizes down to a quart. Using pots smaller than one quart we have experienced significantly lower survival. One grower recently reported he planted 500 Leylands in small "plugs" in February; by April he had only 3 surviving. This poor performance may be due to several factors, but small pot size is likely a big contributor.
E. Growth Rates
Leyland cypress growth varies widely depending on soil, geographic location cultural practices and the cultivar planted. Under good conditions the popular 'Leighton Green' cultivar will grow about 3' per year without shearing and 2' per year under normal shearing. The other cultivars currently being used as Christmas trees (i.e., Castlewellan, Silverdust, etc.) seem to grow somewhat slower.
F. Competition Control
Because Leyland cypress reacts so dramatically to growing conditions, competition control is probably even more important with it than with other Christmas tree species. Within limits the more you do for Leyland cypress, the better the tree will perform. A Leyland will grow into a Christmas tree with limited weed control, but it will perform much better with a 2' weed-free radius around it.
Herbicides are the most cost-effective solution to the competition problem. But a word of caution is in order concerning soil active herbicides: I have observed disastrous results from use of Velpar and Arsenal on Leyland cypress, and others have reported mortality and stunting from Oust.
Most growers have gone to Roundup only in Leyland cypress. Of course, it is sprayed only under the foliage, not over the top.
On our farm we have set up a simple weed control program for our Leylands:
1. Plant one-gallon plants and basal prune them to a height of 8" immediately before or after planting so Roundup can be easily applied.
2. Band spray Roundup on a 3.5' to 4.0' wide band along the rows during the first week of each month from March through October.
3. Use an un-shielded, directed spray hitting about four inches up the stem (under any foliage). Because the handle has already been set to 8", this can be done from the outset even with newly planted trees.
4. Spray at about 15 psi pressure in air temperatures less than 90oF (to minimize drift and atomization).
5. Apply Roundup at the rate of 1/3 gallon (or less) per sprayed acre.
6. Spot-spray other herbicides only on an "as needed" basis for vegetation that is hard to control with Roundup.
This program has reduced both our application and chemical costs since it eliminates expensive hand or shielded spraying, and Roundup is more cost-effective than selective herbicides such as Oust. More important, our weed control has never been better.
Interestingly, we have observed that under older Leyland cypress (two years plus) there is slower regrowth of weeds. The reason for this is not known for sure, but it appears to be the result of some type of natural pre-emergent herbicide produced by the Leyland itself.
G. Insect and Disease Control
All of us who have grown Virginia pine know it seems to be attacked by practically every possible insect and disease. We have to spray all through the eight month growing season for first one bug and then another. We even have to spray once or twice again before sale season to keep the aphids down.
In contrast, one of the most significant advantages offered by Leyland cypress is its resistance to almost all insects and most diseases (a likely result of the phenomenon of "hybrid vigor"). The only significant insect problem seems to be rare infestations of bagworm, and the only major disease is cypress canker.
We've been growing Leylands since 1988 with no insect damage and, until 1996, no significant disease damage, using practically no spraying or other control measures. We have had a few smaller trees die from what may have been cypress canker, but this has not become a problem. Cypress canker is caused by a fungus, which infects the tree through wounds in the bark. It produces bleeding of sap and may kill limbs and even the entire tree.
However, in 1996, we had our first widespread disease problem on Leyland cypress. In August and September we noticed dead and dying lower and inner needles in our Leyland field which would be three years old at the end of the year. Lab analyses found the common fungi Phomopis and Cercospora. Apparently with the Leylands closing in during their third growing season, thereby limiting air circulation, a favorable environment for fungus development was created. Furthermore, in the past two growing seasons we have experienced increasing problems with these fungi, probably due to weather extremes, including excessive rainfall in the spring followed by record heat and drought during the summer and fall.
And, we've not been alone. Over the past two years, growers all across the South have experienced increasing foliage damage to their Leyland cypress. The damage appears as dead and dying needles on the lower parts of the tree, often worst on one side of the tree only. However, if left untreated the damage can spread to the entire tree. Apparently, this damage is being caused by several common fungi which are present in the environment and attack Leylands under stress, as they have been the last two years from drought and very hot summers. Poor air circulation within Leyland fields also contributes to the problem.
Following analyses by several labs, we now are using the following spray program: Beginning before warm weather, for example in late February in southern Louisiana, spraying to control fungus will be at two to three-week intervals, covering the entire tree thoroughly with 80-100 psi pressure and a minimum of 50 gallons of total solution per acre.
1. First spraying: An approved copper-based fungicide (such as Kocide)
2. Second spraying: Cleary 3336
Two-three weeks after the last spraying, we will begin the spray rotation all over again. This program will be continued throughout the growing season until the onset of cooler weather in October. Intervals between sprayings may be lengthened during the middle of the summer when it is hot and dry since the fungi are less active under those conditions.
Be advised! You are responsible for making sure the pesticides you use are legal and according to label directions in your particular location and situation.
H. Interplanting
Interplanting Virginia pine in skips from previous years' plantings has not proven effective -- younger pines just never seem to do well when surrounded by older, larger ones. But Leyland cypress does very well when interplanted, especially when interplanted in last year's Virginia pine field. The Leylands grow fast enough that, by the time the field goes to market, they are as large or larger than the pines. With proper interplanting it's possible to keep practically 100% of a field producing either pine or Leyland cypress through an entire rotation.
I. Moisture Control
Although Leyland cypress will stand more soil moisture than Virginia pine, it still doesn't like wet feet. We notice very pronounced effects due to drainage in our fields. Where drainage is poor we get severely retarded growth, poor color and mortality. On heavy soils with somewhat poor drainage, such as ours, I strongly recommend well-planned field drainage and possibly bedding. Bedding shouldn't be necessary on better drained soils.
We have drip irrigation and believe it produces better results with Leyland cypress than with Virginia pine. However, we have not experienced a severe drought since we've been growing Leylands. Researchers in South Carolina report growth doubling under irrigation.
Again, we don't have all the answers, but irrigation may very well prove necessary for dependable, long-term Leyland cypress production.
J. Basal Pruning
After the Leyland has grown to about 24" to 30" in the field, the lower 8" or so of limbs should be pruned to form a "handle" which will be necessary later to fit the cut Christmas Tree into a stand. We used to basal prune much smaller plants, down to 18", and even did it prior to planting. However, we now believe that leaving that extra foliage on the small trees until they are at least 24" to 30" tall helps their early growth.
K. Shearing
We usually shear our Leyland cypress at the same time and in a similar manner as we do our Virginia pine. We set the top by hand just as is done on a pine and then shear the rest of the tree with either a Murphy-Matic or a Saje.
We've found two major differences between shearing Virginia pines and Leylands:
1. When the top is set on a Virginia pine, the cut is ideally made just below a whorl of branchlets to maximize bud set. However, a Leyland will not set buds like a pine so the cut is made just above a branchlet or set of branchlets. Usually, this will leave two opposing branchlets, so one must be removed to avoid multiple leaders. The remaining branchlet will in time turn upward to form a new top. If it is wished that height growth be further retarded, part of the remaining branchlet can be pruned.
2. Leyland cypress tends to form multiple leaders which can become multiple stems if left unchecked. Not only are multiple stems unattractive, but if they start close to the ground, they can cause trees to split when harvested. So, during each shearing (and sometimes between shearings) branches which turn straight up in an effort to form multiple leaders must be pruned to end their upward momentum.
Many growers make the mistake of not setting the top on Leylands, only shearing the sides. This results in an undesirably tall, narrow tree. To get proper taper, it is mandatory that the top be set each time a Leyland is sheared.
Timing of shearing of Leyland cypress is not as critical as it is with Virginia pine. We shear our Leylands for the first time when they are in the summer of their second growing season. We usually shear older Leylands in April or May and again in July. If the trees in question are to offered for sale later that year, the July shearing allows time to grow out so they can be hand touched-up in the fall but still won't "look sheared" by the time Thanksgiving arrives.
We are experimenting with shearing only once a year on some Leylands in an effort to get more height. This results in decreased density, but Leylands are naturally so pretty (and they don't lose their inner foliage) that many customers don't seem to mind a less dense tree.
One of the few complaints about Leyland cypress is that its branches are not strong enough to support heavy ornaments. If stiffer branches are desired, simply shear tightly in the spring. The sheared branches should be stiff enough by fall to alleviate this problem.
L. Staking
There is a stage of growth, usually in the last part of the first growing season and the beginning of the second, when Leyland cypress becomes quite top-heavy and the roots often cannot support the tree (especially in wet conditions). It is at this point that most staking is required. Some growers stake all of their Leylands in the first growing season. Others, ourselves included, stake only if and when an individual tree requires it. Not only is this an effort to save money, but being subject to wind movement causes trees to develop "wind firmness" which is, of course, desirable.
In any case don't be surprised if 20% to 50% of Leylands need staking early in their second growing season. This staking is necessary to get a straight stem, and the good returns from this tree easily justifies the expense.
IV. MARKETING
A. Wholesale or Choose & Cut?
The conventional wisdom is that Leyland cypress requires too much care (especially water) after cutting to do well as a wholesale tree. But nobody knows for sure. In any case very few Leylands are currently being wholesaled since growers can sell all they can grow choose & cut and nearly all southern farms today are choose & cut farms. So, marketing comments in this guide are limited to choose & cut operations.
B. Coloring
We have not found it necessary to artificially color our Leylands for sale. Other growers have used colorants. I believe there are at least two factors which may effect whether or not colorant is required: soil fertility and/or very cold weather prior to sale.
It is well known that Leylands react dramatically to soil conditions. Although we don't yet know exactly what elements produce a dark green color in the fall, we do feel sure it is largely a function of soil fertility.
Since we seldom have very cold weather just north of Baton Rouge prior to sale, we can't comment too much on its effect on our Leylands' color. However, I can say that we've had temperatures down to +8oF later in the year and not noticed any problem with Leyland cypress color. This makes me believe the bigger factor in fall color is soil fertility.
So, get soil tests each year and follow the recommendations. If this doesn't produce a reliably green color for the Christmas sale season, apply colorant just as you would on pines.
C. Clean-Up Spraying
It is routine to spray Virginia pine and other Christmas tree species just prior to sale as a "clean-up" to get rid of insects, mainly aphids. Aphids don't seem to be nearly the problem on Leyland cypress as on Virginia pine; however, we still recommend at least one, and preferably two, clean-up sprays with Orthene within one to three weeks prior to sale. When such spraying is neglected we have observed a few Leylands with aphids, spiders and the like after cutting. So, it's best to spray Leyland cypress with clean-up sprays just as is done on other species.
D. Cutting
Some growers have said that they cut Leylands for their customers to keep them from splitting. We have found, however, that the trunk splitting problem some experienced was solely the result of improper basal pruning which left multiple stems close to the ground. With good basal pruning trunk splitting should not be a problem.
All the choose and cut farms I am familiar with now let their customers cut their own Leylands with no problem. The only exception to this policy on our farm is that we do cut many of the larger Leylands (10'+) for customers since the wood is hard and cutting is difficult. Also, these big Leylands are so heavy that most customers need some help dragging them out and loading.
There is a minor problem of "bark splitting" on possibly 5% to 10% of Leylands cut. When this occurs the bark on one side of the handle will split off and peel up a few inches on the handle. Customers often are concerned that this will affect how the tree lasts in the home. The answer is that it appears to have no detrimental effect at all. If the customer is concerned about appearance, the bark can be taped back in place.
E. Shaking
Anyone who has grown and sold Virginia pine knows what a pain it is to shake the dead needles out at sale time. We figure it costs us about $1 per tree to shake. Leyland cypress, on the other hand, does not normally have dead needles to shake out. This one factor has cut our sales costs by about one-third by streamlining loading and checkout.
F. Baling
Another of the many pleasant surprises associated with Leyland cypress is how easy it bales. When a Leyland is cut and laid on its side, it naturally collapses to a large extent due to the fact that its limbs grow somewhat upward rather than straight out (as with pines and many other species). A result is that Leylands slide through baling machines with a fraction of the effort required for a pine of the same size. Another result is that, even unbaled, Leylands don't normally blow out of open truck beds or trailers.
G. Quality and Salability
An excellent field of Virginia pine might yield 70% salable trees; our experience at Louisiana's Christmas Forest has averaged about 50% salable trees with one field approaching 70%. With Leylands, however, we have consistently realized over 95% salable trees. One field of 1000 Leylands planted in 1992 (from one-gallon pots) yielded 990 salable trees at age three.
Virginia pine quality is always a problem. It's an outstanding field of Virginia pine which will grade 20% premiums if grading rules are strictly applied. On the other hand Leyland cypress commonly produces in excess of 70% premiums. For example, the field of 1000 Leylands mentioned above produced about 80% premium trees at its third Christmas.
H. Desirable Aroma
Leyland cypress has only a faint aroma. Surprisingly, this hasn't proved to be a problem. When we explain the lack of scent to customers, their usual reply is "The tree is so beautiful I don't care. I can buy something in the Gift Shop to hang on it if I need more scent." One grower suggested hanging as an ornament on the tree one of the small Christmas tree shaped air fresheners available at many stores.
I. Allergy Problems
An unexpected side benefit to the Leyland's lack of strong scent is that it doesn't seem to bother most people with allergies. One of the secretaries in our office had a young daughter with serious allergy problems. She put a Leyland in her house and found it was the first time they had been able to use a real tree since their daughter was born. Needless to say, both parents and child were pleased.
"Christmas tree asthma" causes coughing and wheezing and can ruin Christmas for those affected. For years this problem along with associated nasal congestion and sneezing were thought to be caused by molds growing on the Christmas tree. New research, however, indicates the real culprits are oleoresins produced by the tree itself. Ironically, it is these same oleoresins that give Christmas trees their pleasant Christmas smell. Since Leyland cypress emits only limited quantities of oleoresins, they produce very little scent -- hence, their potential to benefit allergy sufferers.
J. Customer Preference
In regard to customer preference, our experience has been similar to that of Leyland growers across the South -- most customers prefer Leyland cypress over Virginia pine whenever given a choice. Only after the Leylands are heavily picked over do customers really start cutting Virginia Pine.
When we ask a customer who purchased a Leyland previously how he or she liked it, the response is almost always something like this:
- It was the best tree I ever had. I'll never buy anything else. I kept it up well into January, and it looked as good the day I took it down as the day I put it up -- and, there weren't dead needles left in my carpet!
We do have one or two Leylands returned each year because they dried out. But, in almost every case we've been able to determine that the tree dried out because it ran out of water.
Some customers express concern that the apparent lack of branch stiffness will cause decorating problems. And it is true that folks who have a lot of large, heavy ornaments might prefer another species. But no customer of ours who has actually tried a Leyland has told us they would get a different tree next time; they choose to change their decorating habits rather than change trees!
K. Houselife
The biggest factor in the consumer's positive view of Leyland cypress is its outstanding houselife. Without a doubt a Leyland kept in water will outlast any other tree on the market, hands down. We put one in our Gift Shop the weekend before Thanksgiving, kept water in the stand, and it was the middle of March before the tree dried out. Several customers have told us they kept their Leyland up as a Mardi Gras (in February) tree. Another tree purchased by a country club was redecorated after Christmas and used as a Valentine's Day tree.
But -- and this is an important "but" -- the customer has to understand that the tree must be kept in water. It will drink far more water than any other tree. That's why it lasts so long. We tell our customers to check the tree's water twice a day initially, then at least once a day thereafter.
During the 1995 sales season, a representative of the Baton Rouge fire department gave an interview with a local TV station in which he showed how dried out Christmas trees will burn. Then, he pointed out that the consumer had another option, Leyland cypress. He said he had a Leyland in his home (from our farm), and after taking it down, he couldn't set it on fire using a blowtorch! Now, that's a pretty good recommendation.
L. Tree Stands
Because a Leyland uses so much water, a stand which holds a lot of water is much more important for it than for other species. We recommend at least a one gallon capacity stand for Leylands less than nine feet tall, and a minimum two gallon stand for larger trees. We try hard to communicate to our customers (through signs in the field, handouts and verbally) the importance of keeping a Leyland in water. If a Leyland cypress is not kept in water, no amount of colorant is going to cover the disaster. Whereas a dry pine or fir may still keep its color and look OK to the casual observer, a dried out Leyland will crystallize and look simply terrible.
M. Flocking
Much to our surprise we found Leyland cypress flocks beautifully as long as it is not flocked too heavily. A side benefit to flocking is that it greatly reduces the chance the tree will dry out because flocking can practically eliminate transpiration.
N. Leylands as "Living Trees"
Unfortunately, many people are getting the idea that cutting a tree harms the environment. While many have mistakenly turned to artificial trees, others like to buy a living tree either B&B or in a large pot so they can enjoy it as a Christmas tree and plant it in their yard afterwards.
Leyland cypress excels as a landscape tree and naturally keeps its "Christmas tree shape" with little or no care. Demand for Leylands in 5 and 10 gallon pots (and larger) is increasing every year and can be a profitable addition to cut-tree sales. But, be advised, you'll probably need a nursery certificate to sell trees with their roots still attached.
V. FINANCIAL ANALYSIS
Well, what's the bottom line? The following chart comparing costs and returns for growing Virginia pine and Leyland cypress for Christmas trees is based on our experience at Louisiana's Christmas Forest and to a lesser extent the experience of others across the South.
This analysis assumes planting 1000 trees per acre of each species and that 60% of Virginia pine and 95% of Leyland cypress will actually be sold. Planting costs for Leyland cypress are much higher (because of the cost of the Leyland transplants), but ongoing management costs (spraying, shearing, etc.) are lower. It is assumed that one-gallon Leyland cypress will be planted. Sales costs are higher for Leyland cypress only because so many more trees per acre are sold. Leylands are actually less expensive per tree to market since they don't require shaking.
Income and Costs (per acre) for One Rotation
Note: Rotation is age of harvest plus one year to lay out
|
Item
|
Virginia Pine
|
Leyland Cypress
|
|
Trees Sold
|
600
|
950
|
|
Rotation (years)
|
6
|
5
|
|
Price/Tree
|
$20
|
$35
|
|
Gross Income
|
$12,000
|
$33,250
|
|
Regeneration Costs
|
$300
|
$2,000
|
|
Management Costs
|
$8,300
|
$7,750
|
|
Sales Costs
|
$2,400
|
$2,850
|
|
Net Income
|
$1,000
|
$20,650
|
|
Net Income/Year
|
$167
|
$4,130
|
The chart speaks for itself, showing it's possible to make several times the net profit growing Leyland cypress compared to Virginia pine. These results may not apply to every grower's farm and situation.
VI. WHAT DOES THE FUTURE HOLD?
Leyland cypress is not a miracle tree, but it and other alternate species to Virginia pine are going to make southern choose & cut Christmas tree farming a profitable business for those willing to do things right. I heard one grower say "I'm going to stop planting Virginia pine and just plant Leyland cypress because they grow themselves." That's a mistaken attitude. Sure, Leyland cypress will produce a pretty, conically-shaped tree with little effort. But the tree so produced will not be of sufficient quality to compete with other well maintained Leylands or the top quality trees being shipped in these days from the North.
Southern Christmas tree farming will still be a difficult, exacting business even with this improved tree. However, if we work with Leyland cypress as hard as we have with Virginia pine, the Leyland will reward our efforts to an extent Virginia pine never could. This is not the time to get discouraged and get out of the Christmas tree business. With improved species such as Leyland cypress, and a likely imminent end to the nationwide tree glut, the southern Christmas tree industry is just starting to become a good business.
VII. LITERATURE CITED
Dirr, Michael A. 1990. Manual of Woody Landscape Plants, 4th Ed. Stipes Publishing Company, Champaign, Illinois. 1007 pg.
Schoenike, Roland E. and Marvin T. Gaffney. 1989. The Leyland Cypress, a Tree of Beauty. Clemson University and the South Carolina Forestry Commission. 93 pg.
